Resin Printing Miniatures: the full course in one place.

How a consumer MSLA resin printer actually works, layer by layer, so the rest of the course makes sense before any resin gets poured.

The buying decisions that actually matter: pixel size, screen life, build volume, lid type. How to read a spec sheet and time a purchase around sales and new generations.

Toxicity, viscosity, and the water washable versus alcohol washable decision that shapes the rest of the post process. Plus what to choose for a first bottle of grey miniature resin.

How to evaluate a garage, shed, basement, or spare room. Which spaces work, which never work, and what to do when none of the available spaces are ideal.

The PPE and post process kit needed before resin gets poured. What is required for everyone, what differs by resin type, and what can safely wait.

Setting up Lychee Free, why premium pre supported files are worth paying for, and how to navigate the Tribe and Patreon ecosystem without overspending on FOMO.

The framework that underpins the rest of the course: Consistent, Razor sharp, Improving, Safe, Painless. What each letter means in practice and why the order matters.

A fast walkthrough of the full workflow from slicing to waste removal, so the detailed lessons that follow have a shape to slot into.

The unboxing inspection that catches quality control issues inside the return window, plus the build plate levelling procedure with the paper method.

What needs calibrating and why borrowing settings does not work. A tour of the available calibration tools, with a clear recommendation for the Cones of Calibration as the starting point.

Setting up a printer profile in Lychee, dialling in normal layers and burn in layers, and running the first Cones of Calibration test print.

A hands on demonstration of the calibration loop: print, judge how the model comes off the build plate, read the cones, adjust exposure, and iterate until settings are good enough to print a miniature.

Printing the first proper miniature on calibrated settings using Puck the Adventurer as a test, then filling a build plate with pre supported files for a full first run.

Removing prints, removing supports, washing with water, drying, curing, and the safe disposal route for contaminated water.

The three container method (Dirty, Not That Dirty, Wash Station), the curing step, and how to dispose of contaminated alcohol without distilling or filtering it.

Settings adjustments for bigger models, the drainage hole rule for hollow models, and why hollowing water washable resin tends to crack the model from the inside.

Using the Tank Clean feature without emptying the vat, when to empty the vat anyway for a visual inspection, and how to judge whether the FEP needs replacing.

Removing the frame, replacing the sheet, and reassembling with the right tension. Why the simple method beats the tension theories online.

Handling failures calmly: a vat hanging in midair, a suspected FEP tear, resin on the screen, resin inside the printer. What to do first, second, and third.

A systematic approach to what changed since the last good print, with common failure patterns matched to their most likely causes.